Adobe Bridge vs. Adobe Lightroom

When it comes to organizing your images digitally, there are two main programs that photographers work with: Adobe Bridge and Adobe Lightroom. Deciding which program to use is mostly a matter of preference and of the type of content you make. No matter which one you choose to use, make sure to label and organize your work with a clear system that you will remember.

Adobe Bridge:

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Bridge is a great program for viewing your files and seeing all of the information for the files. In Bridge, you can sort the files by different methods as well as see your files under different displays. Another great feature of bridge is its filter settings. You can show just images taken on a single day or even images with the same aspect ratio. Bridge allows for you to mark images and files with star ratings as well as colors that can help organize and filter images as you work. If you have a Mac computer, Bridge is like having a more sophisticated Finder. It is very easy to use, which makes Bridge perfect for anyone. Because it does not have any editing software within it (other than camera raw), Bridge is simply a program for organizing your files. This program is great for photographers who shoot film or designers who need an organizational program that is visual.

Adobe Lightroom:

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Lightroom is slightly more complex than Bridge. With Lightroom, you first have to import images into the program; then you can begin to organize and edit. Unlike Bridge, Lightroom has internal editing software. You can select images and make global edits on one image as well as batch editing. You can also create catalogues within Lightroom with images and files of your choice with different tags, keywords, and ratings. Images need to be exported from Lightoom in order to get onto a hard drive or to print. All of the edits and organizing will stay only on the program if you do not export. It is great for digital photographers who do a lot of separate shoots and for commercial photographers who work with batch editing and organizing. This program has more moving parts than Bridge so it takes some practice and maybe even a class to learn all of what Lightroom can offer.

These are just two of the many organizational and editing programs out there. Organization of files is important; You want to know where to be able to find individual images and files easily and conveniently. With these programs, it will make it easy for even the most scattered person to catalogue their files.

Just a reminder: backing up your files on an external hard drive (or multiple drives) is just as important as organization.

How To Properly Store Your Negatives

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Keeping your negatives clean.

Make sure to keep your negatives are clean and have no fingerprints, dust, dirt, lint or any other buildup on them. Sometimes getting finger prints or dust on your negatives in unavoidable but if it does happen make sure to clean your negatives carefully before you store them. It might also be helpful to purchase archival white lint-less nylon gloves to handle you film with and a can of dust off compressed air. After you have cleaned you negatives you’ll want to protect them.

After you have cleaned your negatives you’ll want to protect them. Use only archival negative preservers. Other plastic sleeves may be made with materials that could harm your negatives. Some plastic sleeves have a glossy surface and could stick to your negative or cause ferrotyping, which is a kind of glazing which causes density variations during the printing process. Archival quality contains no PVC and are safe for long term storage.

Controlling the temperature and humidity

Since all photographic films contain gelatin as a principle ingredient it is important that negatives stored long term must be kept in low temperatures. The ideal temperature should be between 35F and 55F with a humidity level between 30 and 35 percent. If the humidity falls below 25% your negatives are at risk of becoming brittle and the emulsion cracking. If the humidity is above 60% mold or fungus could form on your negatives. High temperatures and humidity can effect processed negatives. You can also you a dehumidifier or any other ways of reducing the humidity.

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Protecting your negatives from light.

Most manufactures sell paper or plastic enclosure and storage boxes designed for film formats. When deciding on what box or enclosure make sure the materials it is made from is archival meaning that it passed the Photographic Activity Test (PAT). The PAT determines if a storage material will cause fading or staining.

Famous Photographs from Past Winter Olympics

(This wonderful blog post was written by our intern Elena)

In lieu of the upcoming Winter Olympics this year, I thought it  would be fun to put together a list of famous photographs from the past Winter Games from the very first Winter Olympics held in France to the photos taken this year preparing for the 2018 Winter Olympics. This year the Olympics will be held on February 9th to the 25th in South Korea.

There are no pictures of his in this list but you should also check out David Burnett's website for his large format photos from past Olympics!

  First Winter Olympics 1924 (slate.com-- Photos via Chamonix 1924 Official Olympic Report)

First Winter Olympics 1924 (slate.com-- Photos via Chamonix 1924 Official Olympic Report)

  Andrea Mead Lawrence first woman gold medalist in alpine skiing training at the age of 15 in 1947 (TIME magazine-- George Silk—Time & Life Pictures/Getty Images)

Andrea Mead Lawrence first woman gold medalist in alpine skiing training at the age of 15 in 1947 (TIME magazine-- George Silk—Time & Life Pictures/Getty Images)

  1964 Olympics (The Atlantic--AP Photo )

1964 Olympics (The Atlantic--AP Photo )

  Parking lot for Innsbruck Olymics 1976 (TIME magazine--Ralph Crane—Time & Life Pictures/Getty Images)

Parking lot for Innsbruck Olymics 1976 (TIME magazine--Ralph Crane—Time & Life Pictures/Getty Images)

  Ski Jump Innsbruck 1976(TIME magazine--Ralph Crane—Time & Life Pictures/Getty Images)

Ski Jump Innsbruck 1976(TIME magazine--Ralph Crane—Time & Life Pictures/Getty Images)

  USA beats USSR in hockey called “Miracle on Ice” 1980 (history.com)

USA beats USSR in hockey called “Miracle on Ice” 1980 (history.com)

  First Jamaican Bobsled team 1988 (Canada Alive!)

First Jamaican Bobsled team 1988 (Canada Alive!)

  Tonya Harding and Nancy Kerrigan 1998 (Npr.org--Vincent Almavy/AFP/Getty Images )

Tonya Harding and Nancy Kerrigan 1998 (Npr.org--Vincent Almavy/AFP/Getty Images )

  Opening Ceremonies Vancouver 2014 Olympics (UC Magazine)

Opening Ceremonies Vancouver 2014 Olympics (UC Magazine)

  Shaun White 2010 Vancuver Olympics-- US team won an unprecedented 37 medals (SI.com--Robert Beck)

Shaun White 2010 Vancuver Olympics-- US team won an unprecedented 37 medals (SI.com--Robert Beck)

  Roberto Dellasega (Italy) Ski Jumping 2014 (zimbo.com--Alexander Hassenstein/Getty Images Europe)

Roberto Dellasega (Italy) Ski Jumping 2014 (zimbo.com--Alexander Hassenstein/Getty Images Europe)

  Image Courtesy of Lou Jones (fotojones.com)

Image Courtesy of Lou Jones (fotojones.com)

  Image Courtesy of Lou Jones (fotojones.com)

Image Courtesy of Lou Jones (fotojones.com)

  Alpensia ski jumping center for 2018 Olympics (NBC---Chung Sung-Jun / Getty Images)

Alpensia ski jumping center for 2018 Olympics (NBC---Chung Sung-Jun / Getty Images)

Photographing the Supermoon

This past week there was a triple threat moon so we got three of our staff members to shoot the moon in three different ways. On January 30th and January 31st, 2018 the moon was a super moon, a blood moon, and a blue moon all at the same time. Brandon, Bruce, and Nick all put their spins on photographing one of the most photographed night skies of the month.

Brandon:

Brandon Used a Sony A200 with an 18-70mm stock lens. These images were taken near the highest altitudes in Bristol County at 390ft. They were taken at 6:30pm on January 30th, 2018.

 Image taken at maximum focal length

Image taken at maximum focal length

 Image taken at minimum focal length

Image taken at minimum focal length

 

Bruce:

Bruce's camera of choice for this was his Canon 5D Mark IV. All of these photographs were taken at f/2.8 with a 200mm lens. He made three images varying in time and location.

This image was taken at Chickatabut in the Blue Hills at 6:05am on January 30th, 2018.

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The image below was taken at 9:46am on January 30th, 2018 in Randolph

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The final image from Bruce was taken at 5:59am on January 31st, 2018 in Randolph

I'm better then you at everything except sucking as a human being you are better at  that 174.jpg
 

Nick:

Nick used an iPhone 6 to photograph the supermoon. This photograph was taken at 5:07am on January 31st, 2018 from Quincy Center.

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*Bonus Image* Paul:

Paul also took a photograph of the supermoon! It was taken in Weymouth some time in the early morning on January 31st, 2018.

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Nick's Favorite Framing projects from 2017

As we start the new year I wanted to review some of my favorite framing projects from last year. If you see any framing techniques or styles that you would like to replicate with one of your own pieces, stop on down for a one-on-one framing consultation!

Vintage David Bowie Poster

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Hand Painted Kenyan Rug & Pillowcase

 

A Mark Hamill Signed Star Wars Poster

 

Stephen Sheffield's Hand Sewn Collage

 

Andrew Seguin's Cyanotypes for Panopticon Gallery's First Exhibition

 

A Selection from Newport Art Museum's 'be of love and other stories'

NEW IN 2018!

We've been busy here at Panopticon adding new services to our roster. Now, we are ready to officially announce all of the new services that we now provide!

Color Film Processing

We are very excited to announce that we are now processing COLOR FILM! Our new processor can develop all formats of C-41 film from 35mm rolls to 8x10 sheet film. Not only are we developing color film, but we are also offering develop and scan as well as develop, scan, and print packages. These new services will be offered with black and white film development as well.  If you want to know more about pricing and film packages, visit our Film Services page.

 

Bulk Negative Scanning

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Have developed film you want a quick look at? We now offer roll, strip, slide, and individual film bulk scans. These are great for quick looks at negatives or for making small, medium quality prints. Our Fuji Frontier can scan both black and white and color film as well as positive film! Along with your bulk scans, you will receive free digital file transfer and an 8x10 contact sheet. For more information, visit our Scanning Services page.

 

Bulk Image Scanning

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Bulk image scanning is a fast and cost effective way to scan that shoebox of photographs you've had for years. Our scanner can handle images up to 8.5x11 inches so all of those old photographs can be digitally preserved or put onto a DVD included with your order. If you'd like to know more, visit our Scanning Services page.

 

Value Printing

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Last but not least, we would like to introduce our value printing services. Value prints are great as test prints to know what to print larger or for little images to give away to clients, friends, and galleries. They are also great for duplicating  or preserving old family photographs. For more information, visit our Digital Services page.

Take a look at our updated services pages on the website or stop by the office to talk in person with one of our staff members about us helping you with all of your photographic needs.

Holiday Framing

Everyone has those prized images from their past or beautiful images of their children or grandchildren. You've got to do them justice and get those memories framed. Framed images make great presents for the holiday season or any other time of year. We here at Panopticon have a huge range of custom and ready made frames for your treasured images.

When you come in to the shop, our staff will be there to work with you through all of the steps of framing an image. First we will help you pick out a frame and mat color and shape that suits your image. Then we will discuss mounting and glass options. Our job is to make sure you love whatever display we come up with. We also work within your budget to make your image look the best that it can without breaking the bank.

Digital Restorations: A gift of a Memory

The holidays are coming up, why not give a one of a kind gift? Really personal and special gifts are difficult to figure out. Imagine what it would be like to give a loved one back a fully digitally restored image. Here at Panopticon Imaging, we can take your old, damaged, or otherwise original images and make fully restored digital copies at almost any size you would like. Not only that, but we can create a beautiful custom framing job for a complete holiday package. Memories may fade, but your photos don't have to.

The process of restoring an image begins with the original. From there, we make a high resolution scan that we then bring into Photoshop and edit until the restoration is complete. Then we make an archival print (or many prints) for you and your family or friends to look at and enjoy for the years to come.

Choosing the Right digital Paper for You

Last year, we came out with a blog post about the different digital papers that you can read HERE. Now, we are going to go a little more in depth on the most popular papers that we use and what they are used for so you can decide which works best for your images.

Matte Papers:

Epson hot press natural:

Hot Press Natural is a matte paper that we use very often here at Panopticon. It is a cotton rag paper with a smooth finish. Because it does not contain added brighteners, the paper has a warmer, natural tone rather than a bright white.

This paper is good for warmer black and white or sepia toned images. Colors are slightly less vibrant and more natural which holds up over time. Hot Press Natural has a wider tonal range than some other matte papers that we have come across.

 

 

 

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Canson Rag Photographique:

With Canson Rag Photographique there are two weights: 210gsm and 310gsm. If you are looking for a fine art exhibition print, make sure you get the 310gsm. The lower weight paper is great for test prints. This is a bright white cotton rag paper that is also archival. The smooth surface is quick drying and has a higher water resistance than other papers to protect the image from damage.

Rag Photographique holds color very well and is great for making vibrant matte prints. If your image has a lot of blues, this is the paper for you because it holds a wide range of blue tones.

 

 

Glossy papers:

Canson Platine fibre rag:

Platine is a cotton rag paper with a smooth, lustrous surface. Sometimes, the paper flakes at the edges when cut, but if you use a fresh blade, there should not be any problems. This true bright white paper does not contain any brighteners that can affect the longevity of the image. Because Platine is a luster paper, the blacks maintain much of their detail from screen to print.

Platine is great for both color and black and white images that don't call for a very glossy paper, but want some vibrancy and life.

 

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Canson Baryta:

Baryta is very much like Platine in its level of gloss, but has more stiffness. It is another smooth cotton rag paper but it has a slightly warmer tone than Platine. This paper has great sharpness and has great density in the blacks. Baryta has a slight amount of brightener that makes it 99.1% white. It also dries very quickly and has a high water resistance to protect from damage.

Baryta is great for almost everything. It has the same finish as silver gelatin fibre paper so blacks look great and colors have a wide tonal range.

Diana Back to School Give Away!

INSTAGRAM GIVEAWAY TIME!!!

 

With September just 2 weeks away (I know right?) we here at Panopticon Imaging have decided to celebrate the end of Summer and Back to School !

How you ask? Well we have a sweet Diana F Camera with all the trimmings we are giving away ON INSTAGRAM, along with 2 rolls of film (Ilford HP5 120) with Developing and Contacts included. Plus a Sticker pack! The Diana F has been customized in Panopti Red because we can’t have anything stock. It comes with a flash and the adapters so that the flash can be used on other cameras along with a pretty cool book on the history of the Diana camera.

CHECK IT OUT HERE!

Don’t know what a Diana is?

Here’s a link to the Lomography site about the newer ones

https://microsites.lomography.com/diana/

And the Wikipedia link has some more info on the camera and it's history.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diana_(camera)

 

Armed with that knowledge and still willing to take the plunge?

 

Embrace the imperfection of analog and happy accidents! Remember it’s not the camera it's the artist wielding it. Don’t worry about the cost of processing because the first 2 rolls are on us! Shoot the first roll, send it  to us we will develop and contact free of charge. Like what you see? Want to change something? Explore an idea that came to you? Load that second roll and have at it! Send it back to us we will develop and contact free of charge as well.

 

 Photo ByBruce R. Wahl

Photo ByBruce R. Wahl

CONTEST RULES:

  • Open to currently enrolled undergraduate Students.

  • Like and tag a friend plus your school on the official contest post on instagram to enter.

  • Winner will need to provide a copy of current class schedule to collect the loot.

  • We will most likely post some of your images at a future date.

 

Flying with Film

 Mr Whiskey Photo assistant and packing consultant extrodinaire 

Mr Whiskey Photo assistant and packing consultant extrodinaire 

So with my upcoming trip out to Anderson Ranch I realized I was going to be flying with a bunch of film. Normally I prefer to drive places so I can make photos along the way. The Journey being as important as The Destination. This go around I’m a bit time bankrupt and the distance is great enough to warrant a flight. This brings into play a whole set of variables.You see with a 2002 Crown Victoria I can fit an amazing amount of stuff. But right now I’m limited to a carry on in the overhead and one that will fit under the seat of the plane….

So some choices have to be made.

First off I’m bringing the Canon 5dmk3 for ease of use and instant feedback during the workshop. 3 lenses 3 batteries 4 sets of cards and a flash round out that kit. I know a zoom takes up less room than 3 primes. It’s just that I don’t work that way. Primes just fit my way of working. My second choice is the tried and true Mamiya 7II with a 65mm and a 80mm.

I chose this camera because it makes roughly the same aspect ratio as my 4x5.It has a leaf shutter for faster flash sync speeds and it has a much smaller profile.That and a few odds and ends round out my back pack bag..

Why the added expense and hassle of working with film? That’s a much longer post for a different time.

So now that I’m mostly packed I need to worry about 2 other essential items.

A tripod and some film. The tripod is the easy one, I’m going to use a smaller one with a ball head and stuff it in my suitcase.I won’t have as much room for underwear and socks but there is laundry available where I’m going so that should be fine.If I wanted one of the bigger ones for use with a bigger camera I could always ship it to my destination and ship it back when done but that’s just not practical right now.

Now onto the 2nd and biggest essential.

FILM. In particular Kodak Portra 400 120.

 Freezer bag with label and some emulsion choices.

Freezer bag with label and some emulsion choices.

After some online research, to see if anything has changed in the last few years. Not much has. Kodak tells us that film rated at 800iso is fine for one pass through the current X-ray machines. That means 400iso is good for 2, 160iso for 3.Maybe. That information only applies to the personal screening machines, checked bags get a WAY BIGGER dose of X-rays. Never and I mean NEVER put film in a checked bag. As an aside,never travel with film loaded in a camera, remember the camera is going to be X-rayed, also there is a chance that the film back might be opened by a screener, and there goes your film…

There are no direct flights from Boston to Aspen I’m going to be making a couple of hops. If worse comes to worst my film will get the Zap two times. Not the end of the world but not ideal and I’m not cool with that. I’m going through all the trouble to work with film I don't want it damaged. Fortune favors the prepared!

What I need to do is put all my unexposed rolls in a clear plastic freezer bag that is marked “unexposed film” and ask to have it hand checked. Nicely and with the confidence that this is how it’s done. Because this is how we travel by air with film. I shouldn’t have to tell you that you should be nice,like me Ma always said, “be nice on purpose.”

Do not use the old shielded bags they used to use for film. If an X-ray screener can't see through them they just turn up the power until they can, effectively rendering them useless.The reason I like the freezer bag is they are tougher then sandwich bags, they have a hardier zipper and they also usually have a little panel you can write on with a sharpie.I label almost everything, it makes finding things in a hurry easier. A well labeled bag that is easily accessible saves the screener time. I don’t know about you but when I run into an organized and prepared person at work I’m more then willing to go out of my way to help them out. They took the time to think about my time and its value. Be that person

 Everything you need plus somethings you don't! but you'll need it if you don't bring it.

Everything you need plus somethings you don't! but you'll need it if you don't bring it.

That brings me to getting to the airport early. Being respectful of other people’s time and allowing yourself enough time to deal with being a special case is important. Worse case you just make your flight, best case you have extra time to buy an overpriced beer while waiting for that flight.

Lastly mark your exposed rolls and keep them in a separate freezer bag. Still easily accessible along with the unexposed rolls just separate. I had to compromise with a screener once where they hand inspected my exposed film and xrayed the unexposed. Yup it came down to that. Exposed film is more sensitive so it was more important to me,the unexposed got marked and then used in the holga because that’s my happy accident camera, I’m already throwing the dice so why not a little more chance?

So clear plastic bag, labeled and readily accessible. Smile, be polite and GET THERE EARLY. Make sense? I hope so,here is a handy link to the tech Support articles from Kodak.

http://www.kodak.com/US/en/motion/Support/Technical_Information/Transportation/index.htm

One from Fujifilmusa

http://www.fujifilmusa.com/support/ServiceSupportProductContent.do?dbid=670359&prodcat=238119&sscucatid=664277

And one from Ilford.

https://www.ilfordphoto.com/faqs